http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ A Place to Meet and Discuss PaperTerrain en-US Wed, 08 Feb 2012 16:29:18 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/search.php http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/war-games-paper-terrain#post-141 Tue, 27 Dec 2011 08:27:41 +0000 JohnIrace 141@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Wow, just watched the youtube video with the war games PaperTerrain. So cool!<br /> Will think about it for my boys.</p> <p>John</p> <p>---------------------------<br /> <a href="http://www.glassesoff.com/?page_id=1243">‫‪‫eyesight improvement</a> </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/inner-dimensions-of-your-landing-craft#post-50 Wed, 03 Mar 2010 23:02:21 +0000 Gunny Highway 50@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Scott, </p> <p> Although I sent you a PM I thought your forum members may also be interested in the inner dimensions of you landing craft. I am doing the pacific and need to base my infantry while waiting for my order from you. I am doing 20mm specifically, and ordered the LCVP and the LCVM. Thanx for your help!</p> <p> Gunny </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/new-bridges-coming-along#post-42 Mon, 30 Nov 2009 22:47:13 +0000 scottwashburn 42@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I'm working on a new set of 'modular' bridges that will allow you to make bridges that are longer than what I currently have available and that can either be the standard 'up-and-over' bridge (that is, you start at table-level and then go up and over the river and then back down to table level) or that can be a more realistic bridge where the road bed stays flat and the bridge supports drop down to the river below. I'm currently building the prototypes and they are looking good. I plan to have them in gray or brown stone or in concrete. They will be available in all my standard scales. I hope to have them available in 2-3 weeks. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/post-rail-fences#post-90 Tue, 02 Aug 2011 17:45:06 +0000 SLFake 90@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Any chance that ACW era Post Rail fences (i.e. those lining the Emmitsburg Road at Gettysburg) are a project on the horrizon?</p> <p>Split rail "snake" fences, while time consuming, are easy to construct with wood (balsa or tooth picks), but post Rail fences are another matter. I keep thinking that paper would be the way to go with these.</p> <p>Thanks </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/figure-mounting#post-89 Tue, 19 Jul 2011 04:13:36 +0000 Robert E Williams 89@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Just thought I would mention that the easiest way to mount any of the figures is to use either of these methods, which, incidentally, eliminates the messy business of glue.</p> <p>Many office supply stores carry a line of blank magnetic business cards with a peel-off for the sticky surface which is easily removed. And the peel-off can be easily marked so as to provide a guide for cutting the magnet into whatever number and shape of bases are desirerd.</p> <p>Best results fo placing the figures on the base are to use a bent nose needle nose plier since their size makes finger grip less than the best method, since the shape of the plier makes it convenient to use a rocking motion to position the figure rather than jamming it in place, which improves the accuracy of placement on the base.</p> <p>Should mention that the business card blanks can be bought in 100 packs, which brings down the price quite nicely.</p> <p>For those who for whatever reason do not care to mount figures on a magnetic base, Walmart for sure, and some art supply stores carry sheets of a sort of thin, about 1/16" foam plastic with one side sticky, in various colors. which works well as a non-skid base, and does a fine job of holding the figures.</p> <p>The foam does offer an additional feature if bought in the vari-colored pack, in that if one desires, the colors could be used to provide a visual clue as to regiment or brigade affiliation.</p> <p>Just a though! </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/landing-ship-infantry#post-11 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 21:26:25 +0000 tanker11741 11@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Whats going on with the LSI ? </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/rules-for-destroying-buildings#post-80 Thu, 10 Mar 2011 20:05:33 +0000 scottwashburn 80@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>This is a set of rules we use with a popular WWII rules set.</p> <p>Rules for Destroying Buildings</p> <p>Before the game begins the construction type of each building should be specified. There are four types:</p> <p>Wood: 2 damage points, Saving throw of 5+, Fire Save Modifier of 0<br /> Brick: 3 damage points, Saving throw of 4+, Fire Save Modifier of +1<br /> Stone: 4 damage points, Saving throw of 3+, Fire Save Modifier of +2<br /> Concrete: 5 damage points, Saving throw of 2+, Fire Save Modifier of +3</p> <p>Note that the number of damage points is for average size houses. Larger structures could have more hits or, alternately, be divided into separate sections which would be treated as individual buildings.</p> <p>Firing at Buildings</p> <p>A player can attack a building in two different ways. One is to fire at the teams occupying the building. Any hits on the team may cause ‘collateral damage’ to the building. In this case, fire at the enemy teams as you normally would. Any hit on a team inside the building also causes a hit on the building, which is resolves as explained below. Any building under a barrage or bomb template may be hit like any other target even if they are unoccupied.</p> <p>A player can also fire exclusively at the buildings. In this case, the building is hit (or ranged in) on a base throw of 3+, which is only modified due to range (for direct fire). Hits scored on the building have no effect on the occupants unless the building collapses, in which case they are affected as explained below. Artillery or bombing attacks may be directed against buildings but will not affect any teams under the template, even if they are not in the buildings (not entirely realistic, but this is to prevent players from firing at buildings to ‘accidentally’ catch enemy troops they can’t see under the template).</p> <p>Destroying Buildings<br /> Buildings are destroyed when they suffer enough damage points to destroy them as noted on the table above. The procedure is described below:</p> <p>1. Weapons must have a firepower rating of 5+ or better to be able to harm a building, although heavy machine guns or vehicle-mounted machine guns have a chance to set a building on fire (see below).</p> <p>2. If a building is hit it must make a saving throw using the appropriate save value from the table above. If the save is made there is no damage. If the save is failed then the attacker must make his firepower role. If this is successful, the building takes one damage point. Damage can be indicated with a small puff of smoke or other marker.</p> <p>3. When a building suffers damage equal to its damage points the building collapses. Any teams inside the building suffer a hit and must make a normal saving throw to survive. If they survive, they now occupy the wreckage of the building. Players may wish to experiment with applying negative save modifiers for teams inside large, heavily constructed buildings.</p> <p>Air Attack</p> <p>Bombs are much more likely to damage a building than cannon fire (a 500lb bomb has more than ten times the high explosive charge of a 105mm shell). Any building which is under the attack template of an aircraft dropping bombs can be hit and if it is, it will suffer 1D6 hits instead of just one hit. Each hit must be saved for separately as detailed above.</p> <p>Fire<br /> Buildings may catch fire due to enemy fire. Use the procedure below:</p> <p>1. Whenever a building suffers a damage point an additional roll is made to see if the building catches fire.</p> <p>2. The firing player makes a firepower roll for the weapon which inflicted the damage. The firepower rating is modified by the construction type of the building as given on the table above. If the firepower roll is failed, there is no fire. If it is successful the building catches fire.</p> <p>3. Each turn that a building is on fire it must make a saving throw or suffer another damage point. This is done (appropriately enough) during the fire phase of each player. If the building takes enough damage to collapse due the fire, it does so per the rules above.</p> <p>4. Teams inside a burning building may attempt to put the fire out during their own movement phase. A successful skill role extinguishes the fire. The team may do nothing else that turn.</p> <p>5. Any platoon which has teams inside a burning building must pass a motivation test during each of its movement phases to remain in the building. If the test is failed, the player must move all of his teams out of the building.</p> <p>6. Teams attempting to assault into a burning building must take a motivation test to do so.</p> <p>7. Heavy and vehicle-mounted machine guns cannot damage a building, but may set it on fire using tracer ammunition. When machine guns hit a building, the building makes a saving throw for each hit. For every unsuccessful save, the machine gun takes a firepower role to set a fire. Note that with the modifier, machine guns can only set fire to wooden buildings.</p> <p>8. Flamethrowers will automatically set fire to any building hit.</p> <p>9. Players could modify the chance of fire up or down due to weather conditions if they wish by increasing or reducing the fire save modifier. If you don’t want to be bothered with keeping track of fires, just say it rained heavily before the battle.</p> <p>Optional Rules</p> <p>1. Fires Spread – A burning building may ignite other adjacent buildings. Roll for the wind direction Each turn buildings downwind of a burning building may catch fire. The building makes a normal saving throw with a +1 modifier for each inch away from the burning building.</p> <p>2. Fires Going Out – Fires might go out on their own. In any turn that a fire fails to inflict a damage point on a building, the building gets a saving throw. If it is successful, the fire goes out. If not, the fire continues to burn.</p> <p>3. Initial Barrage in Big Push Mission – Each building (even unoccupied ones) in the defender’s deployment zone receives 1D6 hits during the initial barrage. The building makes its saving throw as normal. Use a 2+ firepower rating for the attacker. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/snake-rail-fences#post-62 Tue, 23 Nov 2010 22:59:45 +0000 gregoryk 62@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I am, wondering how to put these together. Do you fold them in half. One side over the other. It is not entirely clear, and I got no instructions with my set. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/facebook#post-63 Wed, 24 Nov 2010 00:40:32 +0000 gregoryk 63@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Scott, is PaperTerrain on facebook? I seem to recall it is but cannot locate it. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/flak-towers#post-56 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 22:06:15 +0000 RWMDRON 56@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>A interesting paper model topic to look into would be the<br /> German flak towers that were positioned around Berlin. It<br /> would be a big project. Keeping in mind that the guns could<br /> be raised and lowered by elevator. And the towers were not<br /> small. They would look good in 1/72 or 1/144 or even 1/160<br /> N-scale. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/buildings-wish-list#post-46 Mon, 07 Dec 2009 11:55:35 +0000 WHM 46@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Thought buildings that are German would be nice. There are those who play NATO vs WARPAC and the French looking buildings do not look quite right. Also bridges other then arched stone ones to go along with a more modern 20th century. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/store-problem-12-27-09#post-48 Sun, 27 Dec 2009 16:08:41 +0000 scottwashburn 48@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Well, this is new, but it's not good! The on-line store is having some problems with items that come in multiple scales. No matter which scale you choose, it adds the 10/12mm scale version to your shopping cart. I've put in a service request to the tech people, but this being Sunday (after a holiday, no less) it might take a while to get it fixed. Hopefully not too long! I don't think this will have an effect on any of the 6mm micro-scale products. Sorry for any inconvenience!</p> <p>Scott </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/questions-about-chacking-out#post-43 Sun, 06 Dec 2009 15:39:49 +0000 WHM 43@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I see you've finally been able to put out the 6mm European Town pack. When I tried to purchase using AMEX there is no radio button to choose that option. I end up going to PayPal, but I don't want PayPal so I backed out. So how does purchasing w/AMEX work?</p> <p>Also, not to crazy about the new forum layout. I was previously signed on ot before but this new one didn't know me so had to do it all over again.</p> <p>OK, guess that is enough complaining.</p> <p>Regards;<br /> WHM </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-18 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:07:42 +0000 miros 18@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I bought the 28mm European Farmhouse set earlier this year and finally have the time to assemble it. I am a novice at making buildings and could use any tips.</p> <p>Thanks,<br /> Jason </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/20mm-mid-east#post-15 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:11:58 +0000 RKE Steve 15@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Some picts of my 20mm mid-east buildings from an Ambush Alley game.<br /> IMG]http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww232/RKESteve/AA%20-%20LC%202009/PA031116.jpg[/IMG]</p> <p>some more<br /> IMG]http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww232/RKESteve/AA%20-%20LC%202009/PA031118.jpg[/IMG]</p> <p>and 1 more<br /> [IMG]http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww232/RKESteve/AA%20-%20LC%202009/PA031113.jpg[/IMG] </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/north-african-village-pack-basing#post-17 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:35:56 +0000 mwowm 17@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Hey Scott, i got the North African Village Pack from you at Fall In. I was wondering what size boards you have it mounted on?<br /> Really up in the air whether to individually base or group base as you have it on the site.</p> <p>Thanks<br /> Larry </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/weekend-at-gettysburg#post-31 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:17:03 +0000 scottwashburn 31@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I'm a Civil War reenactor, so I'll be at Gettysburg all weekend for our annual Remembrance Day festivities. I won't be able to answer any postings here, or e-mails until I get back (no Internet in the 19th Century y'know :) </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/how-to-add-images-to-your-posts#post-27 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:37:34 +0000 rusti 27@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p><strong>The short version:</strong></p> <p>use the following code in your post<br /> <code>&lt;img src=&quot;http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6e/Napoleon_crop.jpg&quot; /&gt;</code><br /> The space at the end is VERY important. Of course replace the URL with the URL of your image.</p> <p>The above code results in the following image.</p> <p><img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6e/Napoleon_crop.jpg" /></p> <p>If you start the img code on a new line, you will get the picture left aligned.</p> <p><strong>The long story</strong></p> <p>In this day and age, protecting ourselves online is a laborious process. That is why the following process is necessary.</p> <ol> <li>You must first post the image online somewhere, flickr or some other image hosting service (many are free).</li> <li>Then use the above XHTML code to insert your image <ul> <li>Make sure your image is the appropriate size before using it, unecessarily large images will look horrible and create long download times</li> <li>Copy and paste will get you along way, just change the image URL</li> <li>You've only got 600 pixels to work with as far as width goes, so if you want your audience to see the entire picture, keep it that size or smaller.</li> </ul> </li> </ol> <ol></ol> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/wish-list#post-13 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:19:11 +0000 DieGinsu 13@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I would like to see buildings for Waterloo. La Haye Saint as well as Hougomont. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/sample-does-not-work#post-7 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 16:29:17 +0000 jake264 7@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>When I try to download your free sample I get the error "format error: not a pdf or corrupted". I reported this weeks ago using the "contact us" option but never heard back. I vaguely recall reporting it using the same method months ago but never heard back. I am interested in your product and want to try a sample before I decide whether or not to buy. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/painting-the-inside-of-micro-scale-ruins#post-6 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:56:29 +0000 scottwashburn 6@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>For most of my PaperTerrain models I have a printed 'burned-out' pattern that goes on the reverse side of the building ruins. But back-printing the sheets is time-consuming and expensive, so I don't do that on my micro-scale models to keep the price down. I know a lot of people paint the inside of the ruins so they aren't a gleaming white. Well, an easy way to do this (which avoids the danger of getting paint where you don't want it) is to paint the back of the ruins BEFORE you cut them out. Just take the sheets so the blank (reverse) side is facing you and hold it up to the light. You'll be able to see through the sheet and see where the ruins are. Just take a broad brush and some brown or black or gray paint and slop the paint right on them. Set them aside to dry and then you can cut them out and build the models as normal. A great time-saver. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/holding-parts-together-while-they-dry#post-5 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:50:43 +0000 scottwashburn 5@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I HATE holding parts together while the glue dries! It's such a waste of time! Time I could be using to cut out new parts. So I discovered a way to avoid that: alligator clips. You know, the little spring-loaded clips for electrical connections. Buy a bag of them at an electrical supply store (or Home Depot) and use them to hold the pieces together while they dry. A great time-saver! </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/best-glue#post-4 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:47:13 +0000 scottwashburn 4@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I get a lot of questions about what glue to use on PaperTerrain models. Well, the answer to the question has changed a bit over time. When I first started PaperTerrain I used an inkjet printer to print out the models. Inkjet ink has the problem of being water soluble. If you get it wet, the ink will smear and run. So, in those days I recommended against water-based glue like PVA (white glue). PVA would work, but you had to be careful. I recommended non-water-based glues like the old Duco Cement or the Michael's Craft store equivalent Bond 527. Both are a clear, smelly glue that comes out of a tube. But then I changed over to a color laserjet printer. This greatly improved the quality of the output, but the toner was not water-soluble. So now if you want to use PVA, go right ahead. Ironically, I soon discovered that the Duco Cement or Bond 527 which I had been using dissolved the toner used by the laserjet! Exactly the reverse situation as before! Now frankly, I don't like PVA glue. It's messy and takes a long time to dry. So for a while I continued to used the Duco or Bond 527--I just had to be careful. But then I discovered a new glue called "UHU Twist-n-Glue". It is a clear glue that comes in a funny-shaped yellow bottle and is available from Michael's Crafts. It has the best of both worlds. It dries quickly and it does not dissolve the pigment. I like it a lot. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/whats-new-as-of-10-14-09#post-3 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 12:35:10 +0000 scottwashburn 3@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Well, first: this forum is new!</p> <p>Other than that, the Micro-Scale European Town Expansion Pack is new. So is the new line of Science Fiction products. Coming down the pike is a model of the Hartenstein Hotel. I hope to have this in time for the Fall-In! convention in November. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-new-paperterrain-forum#post-2 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 12:31:21 +0000 scottwashburn 2@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>After having a lot of trouble with our old forum we decided to trash it and start fresh. We hope you enjoy the new forum! </p>