http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ A Place to Meet and Discuss PaperTerrain en-US Fri, 30 Jul 2010 11:20:10 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/search.php http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/buildings-wish-list#post-46 Mon, 07 Dec 2009 11:55:35 +0000 WHM 46@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Thought buildings that are German would be nice. There are those who play NATO vs WARPAC and the French looking buildings do not look quite right. Also bridges other then arched stone ones to go along with a more modern 20th century. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/inner-dimensions-of-your-landing-craft#post-50 Wed, 03 Mar 2010 23:02:21 +0000 Gunny Highway 50@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Scott, </p> <p> Although I sent you a PM I thought your forum members may also be interested in the inner dimensions of you landing craft. I am doing the pacific and need to base my infantry while waiting for my order from you. I am doing 20mm specifically, and ordered the LCVP and the LCVM. Thanx for your help!</p> <p> Gunny </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/store-problem-12-27-09#post-48 Sun, 27 Dec 2009 16:08:41 +0000 scottwashburn 48@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Well, this is new, but it's not good! The on-line store is having some problems with items that come in multiple scales. No matter which scale you choose, it adds the 10/12mm scale version to your shopping cart. I've put in a service request to the tech people, but this being Sunday (after a holiday, no less) it might take a while to get it fixed. Hopefully not too long! I don't think this will have an effect on any of the 6mm micro-scale products. Sorry for any inconvenience!</p> <p>Scott </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/questions-about-chacking-out#post-43 Sun, 06 Dec 2009 15:39:49 +0000 WHM 43@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I see you've finally been able to put out the 6mm European Town pack. When I tried to purchase using AMEX there is no radio button to choose that option. I end up going to PayPal, but I don't want PayPal so I backed out. So how does purchasing w/AMEX work?</p> <p>Also, not to crazy about the new forum layout. I was previously signed on ot before but this new one didn't know me so had to do it all over again.</p> <p>OK, guess that is enough complaining.</p> <p>Regards;<br /> WHM </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/new-bridges-coming-along#post-42 Mon, 30 Nov 2009 22:47:13 +0000 scottwashburn 42@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I'm working on a new set of 'modular' bridges that will allow you to make bridges that are longer than what I currently have available and that can either be the standard 'up-and-over' bridge (that is, you start at table-level and then go up and over the river and then back down to table level) or that can be a more realistic bridge where the road bed stays flat and the bridge supports drop down to the river below. I'm currently building the prototypes and they are looking good. I plan to have them in gray or brown stone or in concrete. They will be available in all my standard scales. I hope to have them available in 2-3 weeks. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-18 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:07:42 +0000 miros 18@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I bought the 28mm European Farmhouse set earlier this year and finally have the time to assemble it. I am a novice at making buildings and could use any tips.</p> <p>Thanks,<br /> Jason </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/20mm-mid-east#post-15 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:11:58 +0000 RKE Steve 15@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Some picts of my 20mm mid-east buildings from an Ambush Alley game.<br /> IMG]http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww232/RKESteve/AA%20-%20LC%202009/PA031116.jpg[/IMG]</p> <p>some more<br /> IMG]http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww232/RKESteve/AA%20-%20LC%202009/PA031118.jpg[/IMG]</p> <p>and 1 more<br /> [IMG]http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww232/RKESteve/AA%20-%20LC%202009/PA031113.jpg[/IMG] </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/north-african-village-pack-basing#post-17 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:35:56 +0000 mwowm 17@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Hey Scott, i got the North African Village Pack from you at Fall In. I was wondering what size boards you have it mounted on?<br /> Really up in the air whether to individually base or group base as you have it on the site.</p> <p>Thanks<br /> Larry </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/weekend-at-gettysburg#post-31 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:17:03 +0000 scottwashburn 31@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I'm a Civil War reenactor, so I'll be at Gettysburg all weekend for our annual Remembrance Day festivities. I won't be able to answer any postings here, or e-mails until I get back (no Internet in the 19th Century y'know :) </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/how-to-add-images-to-your-posts#post-27 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:37:34 +0000 rusti 27@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p><strong>The short version:</strong></p> <p>use the following code in your post<br /> <code>&lt;img src=&quot;http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6e/Napoleon_crop.jpg&quot; /&gt;</code><br /> The space at the end is VERY important. Of course replace the URL with the URL of your image.</p> <p>The above code results in the following image.</p> <p><img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6e/Napoleon_crop.jpg" /></p> <p>If you start the img code on a new line, you will get the picture left aligned.</p> <p><strong>The long story</strong></p> <p>In this day and age, protecting ourselves online is a laborious process. That is why the following process is necessary.</p> <ol> <li>You must first post the image online somewhere, flickr or some other image hosting service (many are free).</li> <li>Then use the above XHTML code to insert your image <ul> <li>Make sure your image is the appropriate size before using it, unecessarily large images will look horrible and create long download times</li> <li>Copy and paste will get you along way, just change the image URL</li> <li>You've only got 600 pixels to work with as far as width goes, so if you want your audience to see the entire picture, keep it that size or smaller.</li> </ul> </li> </ol> <ol></ol> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/wish-list#post-13 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:19:11 +0000 DieGinsu 13@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I would like to see buildings for Waterloo. La Haye Saint as well as Hougomont. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/landing-ship-infantry#post-11 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 21:26:25 +0000 tanker11741 11@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Whats going on with the LSI ? </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/sample-does-not-work#post-7 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 16:29:17 +0000 jake264 7@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>When I try to download your free sample I get the error "format error: not a pdf or corrupted". I reported this weeks ago using the "contact us" option but never heard back. I vaguely recall reporting it using the same method months ago but never heard back. I am interested in your product and want to try a sample before I decide whether or not to buy. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/painting-the-inside-of-micro-scale-ruins#post-6 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:56:29 +0000 scottwashburn 6@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>For most of my PaperTerrain models I have a printed 'burned-out' pattern that goes on the reverse side of the building ruins. But back-printing the sheets is time-consuming and expensive, so I don't do that on my micro-scale models to keep the price down. I know a lot of people paint the inside of the ruins so they aren't a gleaming white. Well, an easy way to do this (which avoids the danger of getting paint where you don't want it) is to paint the back of the ruins BEFORE you cut them out. Just take the sheets so the blank (reverse) side is facing you and hold it up to the light. You'll be able to see through the sheet and see where the ruins are. Just take a broad brush and some brown or black or gray paint and slop the paint right on them. Set them aside to dry and then you can cut them out and build the models as normal. A great time-saver. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/holding-parts-together-while-they-dry#post-5 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:50:43 +0000 scottwashburn 5@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I HATE holding parts together while the glue dries! It's such a waste of time! Time I could be using to cut out new parts. So I discovered a way to avoid that: alligator clips. You know, the little spring-loaded clips for electrical connections. Buy a bag of them at an electrical supply store (or Home Depot) and use them to hold the pieces together while they dry. A great time-saver! </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/best-glue#post-4 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:47:13 +0000 scottwashburn 4@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I get a lot of questions about what glue to use on PaperTerrain models. Well, the answer to the question has changed a bit over time. When I first started PaperTerrain I used an inkjet printer to print out the models. Inkjet ink has the problem of being water soluble. If you get it wet, the ink will smear and run. So, in those days I recommended against water-based glue like PVA (white glue). PVA would work, but you had to be careful. I recommended non-water-based glues like the old Duco Cement or the Michael's Craft store equivalent Bond 527. Both are a clear, smelly glue that comes out of a tube. But then I changed over to a color laserjet printer. This greatly improved the quality of the output, but the toner was not water-soluble. So now if you want to use PVA, go right ahead. Ironically, I soon discovered that the Duco Cement or Bond 527 which I had been using dissolved the toner used by the laserjet! Exactly the reverse situation as before! Now frankly, I don't like PVA glue. It's messy and takes a long time to dry. So for a while I continued to used the Duco or Bond 527--I just had to be careful. But then I discovered a new glue called "UHU Twist-n-Glue". It is a clear glue that comes in a funny-shaped yellow bottle and is available from Michael's Crafts. It has the best of both worlds. It dries quickly and it does not dissolve the pigment. I like it a lot. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/whats-new-as-of-10-14-09#post-3 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 12:35:10 +0000 scottwashburn 3@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Well, first: this forum is new!</p> <p>Other than that, the Micro-Scale European Town Expansion Pack is new. So is the new line of Science Fiction products. Coming down the pike is a model of the Hartenstein Hotel. I hope to have this in time for the Fall-In! convention in November. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-new-paperterrain-forum#post-2 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 12:31:21 +0000 scottwashburn 2@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>After having a lot of trouble with our old forum we decided to trash it and start fresh. We hope you enjoy the new forum! </p>