http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/forum/modeling-tips A Place to Meet and Discuss PaperTerrain en-US Wed, 08 Feb 2012 16:41:08 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/search.php http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/figure-mounting#post-89 Tue, 19 Jul 2011 04:13:36 +0000 Robert E Williams 89@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Just thought I would mention that the easiest way to mount any of the figures is to use either of these methods, which, incidentally, eliminates the messy business of glue.</p> <p>Many office supply stores carry a line of blank magnetic business cards with a peel-off for the sticky surface which is easily removed. And the peel-off can be easily marked so as to provide a guide for cutting the magnet into whatever number and shape of bases are desirerd.</p> <p>Best results fo placing the figures on the base are to use a bent nose needle nose plier since their size makes finger grip less than the best method, since the shape of the plier makes it convenient to use a rocking motion to position the figure rather than jamming it in place, which improves the accuracy of placement on the base.</p> <p>Should mention that the business card blanks can be bought in 100 packs, which brings down the price quite nicely.</p> <p>For those who for whatever reason do not care to mount figures on a magnetic base, Walmart for sure, and some art supply stores carry sheets of a sort of thin, about 1/16" foam plastic with one side sticky, in various colors. which works well as a non-skid base, and does a fine job of holding the figures.</p> <p>The foam does offer an additional feature if bought in the vari-colored pack, in that if one desires, the colors could be used to provide a visual clue as to regiment or brigade affiliation.</p> <p>Just a though! </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-18 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:07:42 +0000 miros 18@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I bought the 28mm European Farmhouse set earlier this year and finally have the time to assemble it. I am a novice at making buildings and could use any tips.</p> <p>Thanks,<br /> Jason </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/north-african-village-pack-basing#post-17 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:35:56 +0000 mwowm 17@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Hey Scott, i got the North African Village Pack from you at Fall In. I was wondering what size boards you have it mounted on?<br /> Really up in the air whether to individually base or group base as you have it on the site.</p> <p>Thanks<br /> Larry </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/painting-the-inside-of-micro-scale-ruins#post-6 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:56:29 +0000 scottwashburn 6@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>For most of my PaperTerrain models I have a printed 'burned-out' pattern that goes on the reverse side of the building ruins. But back-printing the sheets is time-consuming and expensive, so I don't do that on my micro-scale models to keep the price down. I know a lot of people paint the inside of the ruins so they aren't a gleaming white. Well, an easy way to do this (which avoids the danger of getting paint where you don't want it) is to paint the back of the ruins BEFORE you cut them out. Just take the sheets so the blank (reverse) side is facing you and hold it up to the light. You'll be able to see through the sheet and see where the ruins are. Just take a broad brush and some brown or black or gray paint and slop the paint right on them. Set them aside to dry and then you can cut them out and build the models as normal. A great time-saver. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/holding-parts-together-while-they-dry#post-5 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:50:43 +0000 scottwashburn 5@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I HATE holding parts together while the glue dries! It's such a waste of time! Time I could be using to cut out new parts. So I discovered a way to avoid that: alligator clips. You know, the little spring-loaded clips for electrical connections. Buy a bag of them at an electrical supply store (or Home Depot) and use them to hold the pieces together while they dry. A great time-saver! </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/best-glue#post-4 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:47:13 +0000 scottwashburn 4@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I get a lot of questions about what glue to use on PaperTerrain models. Well, the answer to the question has changed a bit over time. When I first started PaperTerrain I used an inkjet printer to print out the models. Inkjet ink has the problem of being water soluble. If you get it wet, the ink will smear and run. So, in those days I recommended against water-based glue like PVA (white glue). PVA would work, but you had to be careful. I recommended non-water-based glues like the old Duco Cement or the Michael's Craft store equivalent Bond 527. Both are a clear, smelly glue that comes out of a tube. But then I changed over to a color laserjet printer. This greatly improved the quality of the output, but the toner was not water-soluble. So now if you want to use PVA, go right ahead. Ironically, I soon discovered that the Duco Cement or Bond 527 which I had been using dissolved the toner used by the laserjet! Exactly the reverse situation as before! Now frankly, I don't like PVA glue. It's messy and takes a long time to dry. So for a while I continued to used the Duco or Bond 527--I just had to be careful. But then I discovered a new glue called "UHU Twist-n-Glue". It is a clear glue that comes in a funny-shaped yellow bottle and is available from Michael's Crafts. It has the best of both worlds. It dries quickly and it does not dissolve the pigment. I like it a lot. </p>