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		<title>PaperTerrain Forum &#187; Forum: Modeling Tips - Recent Topics</title>
		<link>http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/forum/modeling-tips</link>
		<description>A Place to Meet and Discuss PaperTerrain</description>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 06:22:45 +0000</pubDate>
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			<name>q</name>
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			<title>miros on "Tips on Assembling My First PT Model"</title>
			<link>http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-18</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:07:42 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>miros</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">18@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/</guid>
			<description>&#60;p&#62;I bought the 28mm European Farmhouse set earlier this year and finally have the time to assemble it.  I am a novice at making buildings and could use any tips.&#60;/p&#62;
&#60;p&#62;Thanks,&#60;br /&#62;
Jason
&#60;/p&#62;</description>
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			<title>mwowm on "North African Village Pack basing"</title>
			<link>http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/north-african-village-pack-basing#post-17</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:35:56 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>mwowm</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">17@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/</guid>
			<description>&#60;p&#62;Hey Scott, i got the North African Village Pack from you at Fall In. I was wondering what size boards you have it mounted on?&#60;br /&#62;
Really up in the air whether to individually base or group base as you have it on the site.&#60;/p&#62;
&#60;p&#62;Thanks&#60;br /&#62;
Larry
&#60;/p&#62;</description>
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			<title>scottwashburn on "Painting the inside of Micro-scale Ruins"</title>
			<link>http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/painting-the-inside-of-micro-scale-ruins#post-6</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:56:29 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>scottwashburn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">6@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/</guid>
			<description>&#60;p&#62;For most of my PaperTerrain models I have a printed 'burned-out' pattern that goes on the reverse side of the building ruins. But back-printing the sheets is time-consuming and expensive, so I don't do that on my micro-scale models to keep the price down. I know a lot of people paint the inside of the ruins so they aren't a gleaming white. Well, an easy way to do this (which avoids the danger of getting paint where you don't want it) is to paint the back of the ruins BEFORE you cut them out. Just take the sheets so the blank (reverse) side is facing you and hold it up to the light. You'll be able to see through the sheet and see where the ruins are. Just take a broad brush and some brown or black or gray paint and slop the paint right on them. Set them aside to dry and then you can cut them out and build the models as normal. A great time-saver.
&#60;/p&#62;</description>
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			<title>scottwashburn on "Holding Parts Together While They Dry"</title>
			<link>http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/holding-parts-together-while-they-dry#post-5</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:50:43 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>scottwashburn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">5@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/</guid>
			<description>&#60;p&#62;I HATE holding parts together while the glue dries! It's such a waste of time! Time I could be using to cut out new parts. So I discovered a way to avoid that: alligator clips. You know, the little spring-loaded clips for electrical connections. Buy a bag of them at an electrical supply store (or Home Depot) and use them to hold the pieces together while they dry. A great time-saver!
&#60;/p&#62;</description>
		</item>
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			<title>scottwashburn on "Best Glue?"</title>
			<link>http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/best-glue#post-4</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:47:13 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>scottwashburn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">4@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/</guid>
			<description>&#60;p&#62;I get a lot of questions about what glue to use on PaperTerrain models. Well, the answer to the question has changed a bit over time. When I first started PaperTerrain I used an inkjet printer to print out the models. Inkjet ink has the problem of being water soluble. If you get it wet, the ink will smear and run. So, in those days I recommended against water-based glue like PVA (white glue). PVA would work, but you had to be careful. I recommended non-water-based glues like the old Duco Cement or the Michael's Craft store equivalent Bond 527. Both are a clear, smelly glue that comes out of a tube. But then I changed over to a color laserjet printer. This greatly improved the quality of the output, but the toner was not water-soluble. So now if you want to use PVA, go right ahead. Ironically, I soon discovered that the Duco Cement or Bond 527 which I had been using dissolved the toner used by the laserjet! Exactly the reverse situation as before! Now frankly, I don't like PVA glue. It's messy and takes a long time to dry. So for a while I continued to used the Duco or Bond 527--I just had to be careful. But then I discovered a new glue called &#34;UHU Twist-n-Glue&#34;. It is a clear glue that comes in a funny-shaped yellow bottle and is available from Michael's Crafts. It has the best of both worlds. It dries quickly and it does not dissolve the pigment. I like it a lot.
&#60;/p&#62;</description>
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