http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/forum/modeling-tips A Place to Meet and Discuss PaperTerrain en-US Sun, 05 Sep 2010 06:48:25 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/search.php http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-41 Tue, 24 Nov 2009 16:08:57 +0000 scottwashburn 41@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Either one should work. I think I use the 3/16" for both buildings and garden walls, but it's really a matter of personal taste. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-39 Tue, 24 Nov 2009 13:54:23 +0000 miros 39@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Do you recommend a particular thickness of foamcore? I was going to use 3/16" for the garden walls and 1/8" for the buildings. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/north-african-village-pack-basing#post-37 Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:44:29 +0000 mwowm 37@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Thanks,<br /> Pretty sure i'm going to do it in sections on 4-7 pieces so I can still get the walled village look without being static.<br /> don't hold your breath, but i'll post pics on my "blog" when i get to it.<br /> 6mm scifi is next on the table though.<br /> <a href="http://mwowm.blogspot.com" rel="nofollow">http://mwowm.blogspot.com</a> </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/north-african-village-pack-basing#post-30 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:16:56 +0000 scottwashburn 30@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Ah, I misunderstood. The bases are about 15" square, give or take. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/north-african-village-pack-basing#post-29 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:05:51 +0000 mwowm 29@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Thanks, guess i should have been more specific. What are the dimensions of the 2 boards you have the village on?<br /> I'm really on the fence -w- which way to go.<br /> luckily its a few projects away from the table. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-23 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:10:00 +0000 scottwashburn 23@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I would suggest cutting out ONE side of the wall (just the ruin, of course) and gluing it to a larger piece of foamcore. When dry, trim off the excess and cut out the doors and windows. THEN cut out the other side of the (ruin) wall and glue it to the foamcore. This allows you to cover up any cutting mistakes. Don't glue the unruined walls to foamcore, or they will be too thick to fit down around the ruins.</p> <p>Scott </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-22 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:49:28 +0000 miros 22@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Is it better to glue both sides of a wall to foamcore and cut it all at once or to cut each side and the foamcore separately and then glue them together? </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/north-african-village-pack-basing#post-21 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:30:31 +0000 scottwashburn 21@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Larry,</p> <p>I use the 1/8" hardboard (Masonite) that you can buy at Home Depot or Lowe's to base my buildings. I group base my buildings for convenienece in transporting and displaying (I can just point to a base and tell people: "This is what comes in the set"). But what you do will depend on how you plan to use them. Of course, if you are clever, you could make individual bases that are modular so that you can fit the buildings together into larger groups :)</p> <p>Scott </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-20 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:26:58 +0000 scottwashburn 20@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Well, the most important tip is to take your time. Follow the instructions and test fit each piece before gluing. If you have any specific questions, post them here or e-mail me.</p> <p>Scott </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/tips-on-assembling-my-first-pt-model#post-18 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:07:42 +0000 miros 18@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I bought the 28mm European Farmhouse set earlier this year and finally have the time to assemble it. I am a novice at making buildings and could use any tips.</p> <p>Thanks,<br /> Jason </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/north-african-village-pack-basing#post-17 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:35:56 +0000 mwowm 17@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>Hey Scott, i got the North African Village Pack from you at Fall In. I was wondering what size boards you have it mounted on?<br /> Really up in the air whether to individually base or group base as you have it on the site.</p> <p>Thanks<br /> Larry </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/painting-the-inside-of-micro-scale-ruins#post-6 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:56:29 +0000 scottwashburn 6@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>For most of my PaperTerrain models I have a printed 'burned-out' pattern that goes on the reverse side of the building ruins. But back-printing the sheets is time-consuming and expensive, so I don't do that on my micro-scale models to keep the price down. I know a lot of people paint the inside of the ruins so they aren't a gleaming white. Well, an easy way to do this (which avoids the danger of getting paint where you don't want it) is to paint the back of the ruins BEFORE you cut them out. Just take the sheets so the blank (reverse) side is facing you and hold it up to the light. You'll be able to see through the sheet and see where the ruins are. Just take a broad brush and some brown or black or gray paint and slop the paint right on them. Set them aside to dry and then you can cut them out and build the models as normal. A great time-saver. </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/holding-parts-together-while-they-dry#post-5 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:50:43 +0000 scottwashburn 5@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I HATE holding parts together while the glue dries! It's such a waste of time! Time I could be using to cut out new parts. So I discovered a way to avoid that: alligator clips. You know, the little spring-loaded clips for electrical connections. Buy a bag of them at an electrical supply store (or Home Depot) and use them to hold the pieces together while they dry. A great time-saver! </p> http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/topic/best-glue#post-4 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:47:13 +0000 scottwashburn 4@http://www.paperterrain.com/forum/ <p>I get a lot of questions about what glue to use on PaperTerrain models. Well, the answer to the question has changed a bit over time. When I first started PaperTerrain I used an inkjet printer to print out the models. Inkjet ink has the problem of being water soluble. If you get it wet, the ink will smear and run. So, in those days I recommended against water-based glue like PVA (white glue). PVA would work, but you had to be careful. I recommended non-water-based glues like the old Duco Cement or the Michael's Craft store equivalent Bond 527. Both are a clear, smelly glue that comes out of a tube. But then I changed over to a color laserjet printer. This greatly improved the quality of the output, but the toner was not water-soluble. So now if you want to use PVA, go right ahead. Ironically, I soon discovered that the Duco Cement or Bond 527 which I had been using dissolved the toner used by the laserjet! Exactly the reverse situation as before! Now frankly, I don't like PVA glue. It's messy and takes a long time to dry. So for a while I continued to used the Duco or Bond 527--I just had to be careful. But then I discovered a new glue called "UHU Twist-n-Glue". It is a clear glue that comes in a funny-shaped yellow bottle and is available from Michael's Crafts. It has the best of both worlds. It dries quickly and it does not dissolve the pigment. I like it a lot. </p>